The Walker Truck Emblem on the right side of the dash. “DESIGNED AND BUILT BY     Walker     MFG.  CO.
FOWLER   KANSAS,     PAT. 184,547.

The Hobbs Hour Meter indicates 346.1 and I am sure this is correct. The hour meter was connected and operational from the day I purchased the truck.

The 1964 Walker Truck
I purchased the Walker in 1969 after it had been damaged in a garage fire and differental bearings seized, the truck had been used to deliver Pizza and had a propane oven mounted on the back deck. I brought it home and began working on restoring and getting it back on the road. The pinion bearings were seized and had to be removed with a torch. I spent many hours in the gargage working away. About a year later I had it finished, licensed, insured and I was a happy camper. In 1973 we bought the farm so the Walker was put in storage. August of 2005 I hauled it out of the shed and advertised it on Kijiji with lots of interest but no buyers. August of 2010 I decided this would make a good winter project and began rebuilding the walker.
contact me     e-mail     daschneider “at sign” kw.igs.net

The top and rear deck have been removed

The engine with the belt drive and pulleys have been removed

After removing the spring shackle bolts and all other devices fastning the body to the frame

I moved the truck to the lift thinking it would be easier to lift the body from the frame

I forgot to unbolt the shock and the emergency brake cable so maybe now I can seporate the body

It looks bad under here with all the rust and dirt, brake drums removed.

Lifting the body from the frame is going easier now

I have a chainfall hoist mounted to the ceiling on a track which helps when I work alone

Finally the body is clear and I can lower the lift

Rolling the frame off the lift and out of the way

Now I can put the old trailer on the lift so I can lower the body to the trailer for storage

The frame and body will now be given a good cleaning with the high pressure washer

The frame waiting to be cleaned

The left front wheel hub was very difficult to remove and I had to use the torch to heat the hub and also I made a tapered wedge that I drove between the axle sholder and the hub. With the heat, wheel puller, and the wedge, the hub finally came free.

This is the right front axel, you will notice the spindle is a taper, the wheel hub was seized on the spindle and was very difficult to remove.

The brake cylinder on the left and the brake adjuster on the right were seized and grungy.

The brake adjuster after clean up it also looked good.

Girling Master Cylinder was seized tighter than a you know what, finally I got it freed up and it looks good.

The Girling Brake cylinder piston is ¾" and after clean up, it looked pretty good and I think it will be OK.

I took the metal panels from behind the engine and over the rear tires from the frame so the wire brushing and clean up of the frame would be easier.

There was a metal cover under the stearing gear that was bent so it also was removed to reshape and paint.

This is just another view from above the frame, at this point the frame is looking skinny.

So here is the frame with the rear wheel removed, almost all scraped, wire brushed, sanded and ready to be flipped over and painted.

See the 3 chipped teeth on the crown gear, I think this happened when the pinion bearings seized back in 1967 before I bought the truck. I changed the bearings, put everything back together and ran the truck with no problems. So I intend to leave things the way they are and just go with it.

Here is another problem, this spline coupling fits the spline on the output of the transmission to the differential, and it is worn badly. With the help of my buddy Tim, I plan on machining a sleeve oversized then heat shrinking it in place then having the spline renachined. I have faith. Oct. /26/2010

Today I bored the coupling flange, machined an insert bushing and pressed it in place. To prevent the bushing from slipping I installed two spring pins to lock the bushing in place. There is also a setscrew to secure the splined coupling flange to the shaft. Oct. 31/2010

The remachined coupling picked up today from
True Gear and Spline and it fits PERFECT.

The frame has been cleaned. primed. and painted. Nov. 02/2010

The painter did a thorough job and now I am ready to reinstall components.

The frame has been painted. wheel bearings serviced. and drive line installed. Nov. 9/2010

The master cylinder and brake cylinders are in place but not tested.

Drive pulleys have been dismantled, cleaned and rebuilt. I plan on using the same transmission system as original.

The Onan CCK Twin Cylinder engine is in bad shape, I have tried to locate head gaskets, exhaust / intake valves and seats on the internet with no success. I may have to purchase a new engine.

I had some problems removing the valves, and as you can see things are not good. I may have to call in the experts.

What a shame to have this engine deteriorate to this extent. I want to keep the truck original where possible but I may have to replace the Onan Engine.

While the engine is away, I decided to bring home the truck body. Lucky for me I have a truck that will carry a truck.

Removing the body was not as difficult as loading it into the truck, but I managed.

Loading the body onto a dolly will make things easier to remove all the components so I can clean, scrape, sand, to get ready to paint.

Rather a cold windy day today but I have the body ready to start the next task, the prepaint work.

With 2 new intake valves and the exhaust valves and all valve seats reground by
Ideal Supply, Listowel Branch
I cleaned and painted the engine.

Slow but sure, I put the engine back together. The flywheel installed and the fuel pump rebuilt, I will start on cleaning the carburetor.

I use a Laser pointer to locate and prove all the ports are clear. The carb was very clean considering it had been stored for 40 years.

Exploded view of the carburetor.
The Dremel tool is a great device to clean the bottom of the float bowl and the hard to clean places.

The exhaust pipe and fittings were beyond repair, I decided to rebuild using copper pipe. I machined steel flanges that bolt to the intake/exhaust manifold then silver soldered the copper.

I managed to contour the copper pipe a bit and by using 45° and 90° ells it started to take shape. Once the engine is in place and measurments can be taken for a muffler, I will be finished with the engine.

The gas tank in the background had a few pin holes rusted through so I patched them up with some brass shimstock soldered in place.

The yellow wire is holding the start lever. This is a unique operation used to start the engine. When a rope is pulled from the drivers seat, it lifts a lever with a idler roller against the “V” belt tightening the belt from the starter motor and the engine and at the same time closes a switch energising the starter solenoid.

The engine started easily and ran smoothly considering the engine condition only a few months ago and hadn't been run for almost 40 years including the extensive disasembly and cleaning.

The manifold (made in the shop from copper pipe and fittings) and muffler (from surplus store) worked out OK. I hope when I install the body on the frame everything will fit. Take note of the new tires and rims.

I have a problem with the Oil pressure sensor/indicator. I tested the sensor with compressed air and Ohm meter with questionable results.

Also the oil pressure indicator is not working properly and bounces between “0” and “80” so I think the problem is the indicator.

The drive belt arrived last week and with the information I gave Tim from Excel I think it will work just fine. I didn't want to run the engine too long without knowing if I had oil pressure, but all indications look good. I have another belt on order to drive the alternator and will test all these electricals before I begin work on the body.

I just couldn't help it, I just had to see if I could fix the oil pressure indicator. After removing the front face I looked for some indication to cause the meter to jump from full scale (80lbs) and 4.25 volts to (0) at 2.2 volts. There was nothing hindering the mechanical movement and the simple unit rotates the needle armature by means of magnetic energy applied to a small piece of iron.
The sending unit seemed to send a fairly smooth incline from 0 volts to 12 volts when I applied air pressure through a regulator. In the last photo it looks like the magnetic coil on the right is burned or has been heated, There may also be some residual magnetism within the coil core, anyway, today I will buy a new unit.

The left side body panel was rusted badly.

I marked where I wanted to cut and with the angle grinder and a zip blade, it didn't take long.

Next step is to pop rivit the sheet metal to the steel tubing.

Using some real good metalic based filler and a little sanding, this side will be ready for undercoat. The back and the right side will be easier.

February 14 2011 I had the pleasure of meeting Rhonda, Ron's Daughter the original owner of the Walker Truck. We had a very informative short visit and she remembers the Walker Truck and the “new” Walker in a crate sitting in the garage of their home. I to remember the truck all crated up and brand new and wondered if it would be for sale, but at the time I couldn't have afforded to purchase it.
Rhonda called her Mother to ask about the truck and recalls that they had purchased 5 trucks around 1964 and that the new Walker in the crate was shipped to a northern Ontario partner but she is not sure and that was 35 years ago. Rhonda also mentioned that their business is celebrating their Fiftieth anniversary in a couple of years and have many items and photos from the early days. Rhonda and John now own Pepi's.
Pepi's Pizza, The Best Dressed Pizza in Town Since 1962,     87   Water St.   N.   Kitchener, Ontario.
Pepi's Pizza.com

Most of the sanding and loose paint removed

Time to go buy some paint

First I rolled the body out of the gargage and put it up on saw horses

Then I brought out the frame and put it under the body

With some help the body was lowered to the frame

With the shackle bolts in place I can start with some wiring

Most of the wiring has been completed.

The roof , side panels and the fenders have been scraped, sanded and now painted.

March 17 2011 the truck went for a test drive down the street.

Notice the small turning radius.:

A better photo. I would like to have a video taken of the truck and will post a link when that happens.

I have ordered decals for the sides and the dash but have not received them as yet. the original decals were destroyed when the truck was in the fire.

April 8 2011 ¦ Finally got around to getting the doors and back window out of storage. The doors had been recovered about 1970. Originals were destroyed in the fire.

The 102" inch spring loaded CB antenna is just a add on. Everybody that has a 1960 vehicle should have a ”whip” hanging out the back.

A better photo, of the door construction, the frame is round steel rod shaped and welded with lots of cross bracing.

The door latch on the inside, catch on a little bracket bolted to the dash. The doors and back window are very easy to install and remove.

The back window has a metal clip on each side and is secured with a wing nut. The Walker sign I made (from wood) is held in place with 4 magnets.

The doors and back window will be removed and stored. I cant imagine I will ever use them in the future.         My moto,     if it is raining,         I'm not going.

There is about ½“ clearence between the top of the roof and door.

The rear axel is anchoured to the the trailer frame.

Both chain tighteners do a good job of anchoring the truck in place.

Today the new safety decals have been installed.
This one is on the dash.   July 20 2011

The three forward and reverse indicator is located between the seats.   July 20 2011

Truck logo decal on the side of the truck, Eileen did a GREAT job.   July 20 2011

All decals were destroyed in the fire before I purchased the truck in 1969,   I sure am glad Eileen reproduced the decals and logos for me, she also installed them,
GREAT JOB WELL DONE.

I was inspired by Rob Knaus truck had a storage compartment below the dash. Here I am getting the correct angle.

There is very little storage areas on the truck for anything so a little box will just suit. It still looks cockeyed.

I counter sunk the brackets for 1/4 X 20 hex bolts, then drilled and taped the algle iron.

The box is made from 1/2 and 1/4 inch Birch plywood, glued and nailed. This is a dry fit.

I was convinced to put lids on the box. I also have a Boss.

The lids are held open with little finishing nails because the paint is still not quite dry.

With the lids on the boxes. it looks better, the open spaces at the ends are for drink bottles.

I received the personialized plates a week ago then made a frame to protect the plate. October 5 2001.

Rather than transport the Walker in a trailer, I wondered if it would fit in the van.
October 11 2011

Sure enough, it will fit. here I have a tie down strap blocking the front wheel so the truck won't roll while I take a picture.
October 11 2011

I have a winch in the van that I use when I transport my Dremel Demonstrator tool box. This is a little heaveier so I may have to get a larger power winch.
October 11 2011

I also have to work to do with the ramp, I am only using some unsecure planks here and it was a little scary. And of course the roof will have to come off and be stored elseware in the van, I'll figure it out.
October 11 2011